"We want to see Cuba before it changes." Simultaneously, on multiple continents, the brilliant Germans, Turks, Argentinians, Mexicans, and other Americans staying at our Havana guesthouse all had hatched the unique idea that they needed to get to Cuba before Starbucks, Chipotle, and Urban Outfitters do. One local guide, possibly as reliable as the carriage drivers around Independence Hall, claimed that tourism was up 36 percent from December, when Raul Castro and President Obama become BFFs. My husband, Jon, as a child on a family vacation, visited Cuba before the island's last big change. Fulgencio Batista was the dictator, the American mob ran the hotel casinos, and Fidel Castro seemed...
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